By Warren and Dianne Hinson
I’ve heard some visitors to the Isle of Skye describe it as a miniature of all Scotland, with its many bays and lochs fringing the perimeter while mountain ranges form a backbone to the island. On our visit in 2017, there was an almost tropical feel to the day when we ate at one of the oldest inns on the island, Stein Inn in Waternish (west side of Skye). Trees outside the window resembled Palmetto palms on the bay!
But, as we experienced, most of our visit to Skye showed much more typical Scottish weather, including our hike up to The Old Man of Storr. Located on the Trotternish peninsula, which is the northernmost finger of land jutting out from Skye, is a ridge of pinnacles with almost other-worldly – if not bizarre – formations. Included in these is the Old Man of Storr, about 7 miles north of Portree. When we arrived, the car park was full and it was pouring rain. So we parked along road A855, and used the time to don our new rain pants over an extra layer of warm clothing, rain-proof hiking shoes (always while in Scotland), and full raincoats – which by the way, were invented by Charles MacIntosh of Glasgow in 1823!
As usual, just wait – the weather will change – maybe better, maybe worse!
Even though this was late September, lots of hikers were there when we started during a break in the rain.
The trail began as a wide gravel path, but narrowed to a trail soon after we went through a sheep gate (lower left in the photo). Note the sheep lying on the small hill. I think they were lying down to keep from being blown off!
As we neared the top, the iconic and well photographed “thumb” of the Old Man of Storr became more distinguishable from the pinnacles behind it.
If the weather permits, it is easier to see the path you have climbed. Loch Leathan is beyond the trail.
“This jagged volcanic outcrop … was formed by a massive landslide in ancient times. …but on this island so steeped in myth … It’s said that the rock and a smaller one nearby are the work of fairies who turned to stone an elderly couple who wished to never be apart. It’s also believed that the rock is the thumb of a giant buried deep in the earth.” [from Frommer’s Scotland, 2019, 16th edition]. If you are a sci-fi movie fan, you may recognize that many films have featured this landscape as their backdrop, including The Wicker Man (1973), Prometheus (2012), and Snow White and The Huntsman (2012). [Alltrails.com]
There is actually a 2.9-mile circular trail at the site of the Old Man of Storr, but we only explored a short way beyond the iconic formation. I climbed up on a small plateau looking over toward the Isle of Raasay.
It’s always interesting where you find wee lochans when hill walking.
If you continue north on A855, you can also see dramatic Mealt Falls which drops into the ocean at Kilt Rock, so named because of the layers of rock resembling the pattern/pleats of a kilt.
As usual, we stopped after the hike at a local restaurant for a great meal and hot tea. This day it was the Skye Pie Café just a few miles further up A855. You could order from a menu of meat pies with fresh and seasonal produce, and with a beautiful flower garden just outside the window.
Finally, if you have time left in your day, visit the Skye Museum of Island Life further around A855 on the Trotternish peninsula near Kilmuir. A group of thatch-roofed cottages show life in the Hebrides as it was at about the turn of the 20th century. We arrived with only about 30 minutes until closing time, so we didn’t have as much time as we would have liked to explore. The grave of Flora MacDonald is also located here.
See you on the trail!
Warren and Dianne Hinson